Understanding Knit Gauge in Merino Wool

If you've browsed our knitwear and noticed a "gg" figure on the product page, here's what it means, and why it matters.

What is knit gauge?

Gauge, written as "gg", measures the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine used to make the fabric. It's a spec that applies specifically to knitted garments: jumpers, cardigans, and chunky knits rather than the smoother jersey fabrics used in base layers and tees.

A lower gauge number means fewer needles per inch, producing a chunkier, more open knit with visible texture. A higher gauge number means more needles packed closely together, creating a finer, smoother fabric.

The main gauge types

• Chunky knit (around 3gg): Open, textured, and visually distinctive. The kind of knit you can see clearly from across the room. Chunky gauge knits trap a lot of air between the fibres, making them genuinely warm, but they're best worn as a standalone outer layer rather than packed under a shell.
• Mid gauge (around 7gg): A versatile middle ground with some visible stitch texture but a closer fit than chunky. Mid gauge knits are smart enough to wear casually and warm enough to earn their place in a layering system.
• Fine knit (around 12gg): Much smoother and more refined looking. Fine gauge knitwear sits closer to the body, layers more cleanly under outerwear, and has a tidier finish that works well in both casual and the outdoors.
• Ultra fine (around 18gg): The tightest knit construction. Ultra fine gauge produces a very smooth, almost jersey-like surface. The visual difference from a base layer is subtle, but the structure and drape of a knitted fabric is still distinct.

Why it matters when choosing knitwear

Gauge affects more than just appearance. More open knits dry a little slower and can snag more easily, but they trap more air and have a lot of visual character. Tighter knits are more streamlined, layer better, and tend to be more durable in the long run.

Neither is better in absolute terms, it depends on what you want the garment to do.

A quick rule of thumb

Going out for the day and want one warm layer that looks good? Mid or chunky gauge. Heading somewhere cold where you'll want to add a shell on top? Fine or ultra fine will layer far more comfortably. Just want something that bridges the gap between a technical layer and everyday wear? Fine gauge is probably the best choice.